An Introduction to Cantabrian Wine

Cantabria is a region located on the central Cantabrian coast, in the north of Spain. It is framed on the East by the Basque country and on the West by Asturias, with the Castilian provinces of Leon, Palencia and Burgos to the South.

Cantabria’s mountainous and coastal geography is unique, with over 40% of the total surface at above 700m altitude, and full of dramatic valleys, steep mountainsides, seaside cliffs and beaches. Due to its landscape, Cantabria benefits from two distinct climates: maritime nearer the coast, and mediterranean in the interior. Both enjoy moderate temperatures and high precipitation, though the mediterranean climate experiences more exaggerated temperature fluctuations. The region’s geographical features make it a natural home for grape growing and wine production.

While the first mention of vines in the region can be traced back to the 9th century, the popularity of winemaking in the region has waxed and waned through the years. Since the year 2000 we’ve seen a steady rise in the number of wineries releasing bottles for commercial distribution. Over the last two decades, Cantabrian winemakers have worked to produce quality wines that are now comparable to other Spanish regions. Local producers have benefited from the warming effects of climate change, and the Cantabrian government is supporting the industry to capitalise on its growing potential.

Currently, the winemaking landscape is made up of approximately twenty small bodegas, which combined produce over fifty different wines. Although they vary in size and commercial reach, Cantabrian wineries could still be described as small and local, selling mostly to regional hospitality establishments, gourmet shops, and direct to consumers online.

Although there are no Protected Denominations of Origin (PDO) in Cantabria, some wines from this area have a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), which assure the quality of the wine production, and solidify the growing reputation of the region’s winemaking history. 

Cantabria has two dominant PGI regions, both of which were created in 2005: “Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria” and “Vino de la Tierra de Liébana”. 

Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria refers to the wines produced from the Cantabrian coast to the inner valleys that experience the impact of the Atlantic climate, up to an elevation of 600 metres. Many vineyards are planted on north-facing hillsides close to the capital city of Santander, with stunning views of the sea. The wines made here are characterised by a unique freshness and salinity granted by the Cantabria sea’s influence. 

Although the region permits the use both white and red grapes, the wines made here are mostly fresh and light white wines, with moderate alcohol content, and pronounced but balanced acidity. They are mostly designed to be drunk young, though some styles can mature for 3-5 years in bottle.

While Albariño is the leading grape of choice, local winemakers have also made refreshing wines using Gewürztraminer and Riesling, as well as some traditional north- Atlantic styles using Godello and Treixadura. In recent years, some producers have even ventured into sparkling wine production, taking advantage of the cool Atlantic influence that creates high-acidity wines, and tapping into the market demand for Bruts, which have been received very positively.

Vinos de la Tierra de Liébana are produced in the south-western interior part of the province, in a mountainous area bordering Castille. It’s a unique terroir with a mediterranean climate that is largely sheltered from the high precipitation that is common in the north of Spain. This region is rich with history and has been recognised as one of the most beautiful rural areas in Spain on multiple occasions. 

While both red and white styles are permitted here, it’s the red wines made with Mencía, Tempranillo and Garnacha Tinta that dominate. These red wines are predominantly youthful in style, with medium body, tannins and acidity compared to other Spanish wines like Rioja or Ribera.